Work out how many stock pieces you need for a set of equal cuts, including saw kerf. Enter the stock length, cut length, and how many cuts.
Usage Tip
Lay out cuts longest-first to fit more per board and leave bigger, more usable offcuts. Mark the kerf side of every line so you cut on the waste side consistently.
Stock pieces = round up (cuts needed ÷ cuts per stock)
Kerf is the material the blade turns to dust on each cut
This assumes all cuts are the same length; for mixed lengths, run it per length or lay it out by hand.
Kerf adds up — ten cuts at 1/8″ is over an inch of lost material per board.
Keep offcuts longer than your shortest cut; they often cover a piece or two and reduce what you buy.
What Is a Cut List?
A cut list is the plan that turns a project into purchases: every piece you need, its length (and width for sheet goods), and how many. The calculator above takes that list, accounts for the saw kerf, and packs the pieces onto stock boards or plywood sheets to tell you how many to buy and how to cut them with the least waste.
Saw Kerf & Why It Matters
The kerf is the width of material the blade turns to dust on every cut – typically about 1/8 inch (3 mm) for a table saw, less for a thin-kerf or track-saw blade. It sounds trivial until you make a lot of cuts: ten cuts at 1/8 inch removes 1.25 inches from a board, enough to lose a part. Cut planning that ignores kerf is the classic reason a board comes up one piece short.
| Cuts per board | Kerf at 1/8 in | Length lost |
|---|---|---|
| 4 | 1/8 in | 0.5 in |
| 8 | 1/8 in | 1.0 in |
| 12 | 1/8 in | 1.5 in |
| 20 | 1/8 in | 2.5 in |
Material Optimization Guide
Optimizing means fitting the most parts onto the fewest boards or sheets. The calculator uses a first-fit-decreasing strategy: it sorts your parts largest-first and drops each onto the first board with room, opening a new board only when nothing fits. That simple rule gets close to the best possible yield for most real cut lists. For plywood it lays parts out in rows (shelves) across the sheet, which is how most one-cut-at-a-time shop workflows actually proceed.
Waste Reduction Guide
To cut waste: group same-length parts so they share a board, cut longest parts first, keep usable offcuts for small parts later, and order stock in lengths that divide cleanly into your parts (a 96 inch board yields three 32 inch shelves with almost nothing left). Always add a waste allowance – about 10% for clean dimensional cuts, 15–20% for hardwood where you cut around defects, and more for figured or rough stock.
How Many Cuts Can I Get From an 8 Foot Board?
An 8 ft board is 96 inches. After subtracting saw kerf (about 1/8 in per cut), here is roughly how many equal pieces you get and what is left over:
| Piece length | Pieces per 96 in board | Offcut left |
|---|---|---|
| 12 in | 7 | ~11.2 in |
| 16 in | 5 | ~15.5 in |
| 24 in | 3 | ~23.8 in |
| 30 in | 3 | ~5.8 in |
| 48 in | 1 | ~48 in |
For mixed lengths, the optimizer above packs everything together and shows the exact board count and cut plan.
Common Board Chart (Nominal vs Actual)
Lumber is sold by nominal size but measures smaller once surfaced – cut your list to the actual dimensions:
| Nominal | Actual size |
|---|---|
| 1×4 | 0.75 x 3.5 in |
| 1×6 | 0.75 x 5.5 in |
| 2×4 | 1.5 x 3.5 in |
| 2×6 | 1.5 x 5.5 in |
| 4×4 | 3.5 x 3.5 in |
Plywood is sold at full nominal size (a 4×8 sheet really is 48 x 96 in) but actual thickness runs slightly under the label (3/4 in is often ~23/32 in).
Cabinet, Shelving & Framing Examples
Cabinet: a base cabinet box breaks into two sides, a bottom, a back, and stretchers – mostly 3/4 in plywood, where sheet optimization saves the most money. Shelving: a bookcase is repeated identical shelves plus two long sides; group the shelves so several come off one board. Framing: a stud wall is mostly identical studs cut from 92-5/8 in pre-cuts or from 8 ft stock, where the kerf and a square first cut matter most. The calculator handles all three – linear stock for lumber, sheet mode for plywood.
Common Cut List Mistakes
- Ignoring kerf and coming up a part short.
- Cutting to nominal size instead of actual.
- Cutting short parts first and stranding long parts across boards.
- No waste allowance for defects or mismeasures.
- Forgetting grain direction on plywood, which limits how parts can rotate.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a cut list?
A list of every part a project needs – length, width, and quantity – used to buy material and plan cuts with minimal waste.
What is saw kerf?
The width of material removed by the blade on each cut, about 1/8 inch for most saws. It must be subtracted from stock for every cut.
How do I optimize cuts to reduce waste?
Sort parts largest-first, fit each onto the first board with room, reuse offcuts, and buy stock lengths that divide evenly into your parts. The calculator does this automatically.
How many boards do I need?
It depends on part lengths, stock length, and kerf. Enter your parts above and the calculator returns the board or sheet count plus a cutting layout.
What is the difference between nominal and actual lumber size?
Nominal is the called size (2×4); actual is the smaller surfaced size (1.5 x 3.5 in). Always cut to actual.
Can I plan plywood cuts with this?
Yes – switch to sheet mode, enter part widths and lengths, and it lays them out on 4×8 (or custom) sheets.
How many cuts can I get from an 8 ft board?
It depends on the piece length and kerf. From a 96 in board you get about seven 12 in pieces, three 24 in pieces, or one 48 in piece. Enter your lengths above for an exact plan.
Related Woodworking Calculators
Note: the optimizer uses a first-fit-decreasing (and shelf-based, for sheets) strategy – a fast, near-optimal heuristic, not a guaranteed mathematical minimum. Cut to actual lumber dimensions, account for saw kerf, inspect stock for defects, and add a waste allowance. Always confirm the layout before cutting. General woodworking guidance, not a substitute for measuring your own material.